Athens

The city where democracy was born.  The streets where Aristotle, Socrates, and Plato walked.  The stories of the Iliad and the Odyssey.  The gods, Athena, Apollo, Zeus, Poseidon.  It is all from here.  It is incredible to walk around this city.  As you walk through the area of the old city, here and there you come across random bits of ruins, right in between the modern city. 

The highlight of ancient Athens is the Acropolis and the Ancient Agora.  The Acropolis was the ceremonial center of the city, with the Parthenon and temple of Athena.  The Agora was the marketplace of the city, on which steps the great thinkers would gather and teach their disciples.  The Acropolis has been the center of Athens since 6800 BC.  Wow, a lot of history.  The Mycenaeans,  the Persians, the Aegeans, Spartans, etc. 

The Parthenon is just as imposing in real life as you may imagine, even in rubbles.  Built in 450 BC, it has amazing architecture techniques designed to fool the eye, with engineering that would be impressive today. The carvings are intricate and imaginative.  (Oh, and thanks to Rick Steves, I now can clearly discern Doric from Ionic from Corinthian columns!)  Originally, the Parthenon contained a 40 foot statues of Athena, with all of her skin a glowing ivory, and all of her clothes from gold.  That had to be incredible to see, but has been missing over a millennia.  Next door, the Erechtheion, with its beautiful Porch of the Caryatids, is stunning! 

 

Beyond the hill of the Acropolis, the city of Athens sprawled in every direction as far as the eye can see.  A third of all Greeks now live in Athens, making it an absolutely huge city. 

Agora - while the Acropolis was the ceremonial center, the Ancient Agora was the market and gathering place of the city for millennia.  This is where Socrates spoke to people on the streets, asking them to question popular wisdom, and “know thyself”.  This is where rational thinking and science evolved.  Democracy, and the instruments that allowed it to happen were developed here.  Very cool. 

The National Archeological Museum walks you through the artistic history of Greece, from the earliest traces of civilization, to the Golden Age of Greece, through the occupation of and fall of the Roman Empire.  It, along with Rick Steves’ guide, does a marvelous job of teaching you to appreciate the different styles classic to each Era. 

Wandering the streets, people, food, etc.  Here the churches are not the grand Cathedrals of much of the rest of Europe, but rather the smaller, simpler churches of the Greek Orthodox church.  Filled with symbolism, in a simple format, some of these churches have stood for over 1000 years, being converted or tolerated during the long Ottoman (Muslim) occupation of the country.  They are now surrounded by modern buildings, and continuously busy with people stopping by on their way to or from various parts of life, to light a candle and say a prayer. 

One last fun sight in the city - I happened to catch the changing of the guards in front of the parliament building.  They do a very traditional high stepping ceremonial changing, while wearing very traditional outfits.  Tourists can take their pictures with the guards, who are not allowed to smile, interact, or show any sign that they care.  Meanwhile, another soldier in camouflage and a beret interacts with the crowds, keeping them in line. 

Next stop Delphi, to visit the Oracle!